Tasting Antigua

January 4, 2010

I wrote this post back in 2010, but we have since returned to beautiful Antigua! We hired Roger, the tour guide mentioned in this post, once again and had another great trip exploring this stunning island!
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“What would you like for lunch?,” our guide asked.

“Something local,” my husband and I said in unison.
 
I think our guide was a little surprised. There are a lot of food choices available on the island of Antigua, especially considering its rather European history. I had, however, read up on some of local, native foods of island before our trip and had been looking forward to trying them for months.
 
For the past several years we’ve taken a vacation in the Caribbean the week before Christmas. This year we made our first visit to the island of Antigua. We stay at Sandals resort, which we love, but as we’ve traveled more and more we find it important to get off the comfy resort and learn more about the places we are visiting. That, of course, also means having some local food.
 
This year we hired a private driver, a local named Roger. He took us out driving for the day and taught us so much about the history of his island. Probably due to the focus of my questions a large portion of what we learned was focused on food. For starters, he showed just about every fruit plant that grows in the area. I tried to make a list of the things we saw, but I’m sure I missed a few.
 

Sorrel, breadfruit, pomelo, lemon, lime, cacao, guava, passion fruit, pomegranate, custard apple, pineapple, banana, soursop, mango, avocado, ackee, papaya, tamarind and coconut.
That’s a lot of tropical fruit for one small island! In fact, Roger told us that many fruits such as the lemon and mango simply go to waste because they aren’t used in a lot of local cooking.
 


Midday we passed a few roadside stands selling fresh fruit, the highlight being the Antiguan Black Pineapple. Roger assured us that it would be the sweetest we’ve ever tried. I was skeptical considering all the delicious pineapples we were able to try in Brazil, but Roger was spot on. The flavor rivaled those of South America.

 

As you can see the pineapple isn’t black at all. It is small in size with a dark, golden skin when ripe. The owner of the stand we stopped at prides herself on only selling the Antiguan Black Pineapple. We got a plate of the pineapple and some finger bananas (as they were being called). The bananas were much like the banana maça we used to get in Brazil, but I’m not sure that they are the exact same variety. What a plate of nature’s goodness!


Roger came across as a natural, unprocessed food advocate and we had a lot of interesting, informative conversations throughout the day. He told us that because Antigua is so small many foods are imported. That also means that many food trends come along with it. For example, he said when he was growing up they made their own sea salt harvesting it from the water around them. Then all of a sudden they started receiving shipments of table salt and it began showing up in stores.

They began eating that type of salt being told that it was better, likely because of the iodine. Of course, today the focus is back on sea salt because of its beneficial mineral content. So what they had done as kids turned out to be the best practice.

I think we can all relate to that. Food trends whether for health or taste always seem to upset cultures and often healthy practices whether it be a large landmass or a small island.

For lunch we ended up at a small restaurant called Caribbean Taste. The best way to describe it was a home-slash-restaurant. Family and friends came in and out while we ate and groups of women sat in the main area of the building eating and preparing more food for cooking.

 



I was hoping to get to try the sorrel drink which is made around the holiday season, but they had not made it that particular day. Instead, we got some homemade ginger drink. This stuff was amazing. I’ve had ginger beer before which is carbonated, but this was like lemonade, but made with ginger instead. It was sweet with that spicy burn specific to fresh ginger root.

 


When I found out there was only one order of Ducana left for the day I quickly decided what I wanted. I had read about it prior to our trip and Roger explained it to us on the tour as well. Made of sweet potato, flour, sugar, coconut and spices it is a dumpling steamed in a banana leaf. Mine was served with salted cod in a red sauce and chop-up which is a mixture of veggies most prominently spinach. A delicious sweet and savory combination.

 
 


My husband tried the curried goat. Okay, I did try it. Since I had pet goats growing up and my parents still raise them I have a really hard time enjoying goat as a meal. However, I do understand the fact that it is a common protein source for many cultures. So in the spirit of being open to foods and culture I tried a bite.

I can’t say I loved it and that had nothing to do with the fact that it was goat. It reminded me of a roast like my mom used to make when I was growing up. Kind of fatty, but with tender yet slightly chewy meat. The flavor of the sauce was great, but I didn’t enjoy the meat, however, I think my husband would order it again for sure.

Along with the great food out on the island, the food at the resort wasn’t too shabby either. I will say we were disappointed that more local foods didn’t make the menu. We talked to Roger about this and he expressed that he wished the people of Antigua would demand that local foods be used on the menu. I’m speaking of local dishes/recipes here, not necessarily local ingredients. Apparently in Jamaica it is a priority so although you may not have something truly authentic it is likely you will find a version of escovitch fish, jerk chicken and ackee and salt fish even on the menus of all-inclusive resorts.

The one exception was the Caribbean rock lobster for which Barbuda (part of the same country as Antigua) is known. We had grilled lobster many times during our visit. I also had a bit of fungi for breakfast one morning which is a cornmeal similar to polenta. This version was formed into patties or cakes and served with okra.

 
Sushi with spicy crab
 
 
Fried Calamari
 

 
Seafood Chowder
 
 
Curry Lamb
 

 
Paradise Punch from the swim-up bar
 

 
Pumpkin Cheesecake
 

 
Deconstructed Tiramisu
 


I love foods of the Caribbean and Antiguan cuisine was no exception. If you find yourself there, head out and explore the island and eat some fantastic food while you’re at it!

 
 
Need a guide when you are there?
Our day with Roger was fantastic!
Roger’s Taxi & Tours
(268) 764 -6331
rogertaxitours (at) gmail (dot) com

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  • Chow and Chatter January 4, 2010 at 4:19 pm

    oh count me in for the curries we are the same way when we travel about trying local foods love love it

  • Emily (A Nutritionist Eats) January 4, 2010 at 4:51 pm

    Wow! That food all looks amazing! Did you get to try the breadfruit? I saw some in Haiti – but never had a chance to try it!
    And I tried goat. Once. And that was it.

  • Joy January 4, 2010 at 5:45 pm

    All the best ways to make the most of your wonderful holiday experience!

  • lesley lifting life January 4, 2010 at 7:59 pm

    I’m jealous of your unique eating experiences … so neat! 🙂

  • OysterCulture January 4, 2010 at 8:04 pm

    Looks like an amazing and fun trip! I’d go just for the food. I remember the incredibly fruit from when we visited Martinque- the flavors were intense and I felt like I finally knew what bananas and such were really suppose to taste like

  • 5 Star Foodie January 4, 2010 at 8:17 pm

    What a great experience! I love that you tried to taste all the authentic ingredients and specialties in Antigua. I hope to visit some day.

  • kat January 4, 2010 at 8:31 pm

    Wow, your day with your driver sounds great, glad you got to try some local food. Matt & I had been kicking around the idea of staying at an all-inclusive resort in Mexico this winter but the thing that stopped us the most was the fear of the resort food.

  • Debinhawaii January 5, 2010 at 1:13 am

    Looks like you had some wonderful food and great experiences! Loving your Christmas gifts from the previous post too. Foodie presents are the best. 😉

  • Impromptu Diva January 5, 2010 at 1:32 am

    wow food looks amazing! i love curries too… and eating local is always the best gastronomic experience.

  • Angie (Losing It and Loving It) January 5, 2010 at 9:54 am

    Love the Caribbean in December. We go to Jamaica every year and stay at Couples Swept Away (All Inclusive like Sandals). In fact we just got back and it was great to see you post about sorrel, breadfruit, soursop and ackee. And yes they serve all of those wonderful foods at the resort. We have eaten off resort down the beach too which is just as good. Ohhh I love the Caribbean! And of course we are already planning to go back Dec. 2010.

    I loved reading your post about Antigua. I would like to visit other islands but hubby doesn’t want to mess with a good thing LOL

  • Daily Spud January 6, 2010 at 1:54 am

    Sounds like you had a wonderful guide in Roger which, I’m sure, made all the difference to your trip. My favourite bit, though? That plate of pineapple and banana – I’d love to have some of that for my breakfast right now!

  • Toni January 6, 2010 at 8:48 am

    What a great tour of Antigua’s food – and I love your photos! Getting a driver is the way to go when traveling anywhere, I think. And thanks for the story on the sea salt.

  • MrsLavendula January 6, 2010 at 11:22 am

    that rock lobster looks delicious!

  • Patricia January 6, 2010 at 2:32 pm

    I just had lunch but your photos and account of Antiguan food has made me hungry again. I’ll definitely keep Roger in mind if I’m ever there 🙂

  • Jennie January 6, 2010 at 8:53 pm

    Oh my goodness! I want to go to Antigua! It all looks so wonderful!
    Beautiful post. I have bookmarked it for when I visit someday! 🙂

  • Tangled Noodle January 6, 2010 at 10:11 pm

    What a great experience to have Roger share his knowledge of true Antiguan foodstuff. I can relate regarding the availability of local foods in resort areas: we spent 3 days in Boracay, Philippines – a wonderful beach resort popular with both Filipino and foreign vacationers. However, I was struck by how few restaurants served Pinoy cuisine while Italian, Mexican and even German foods were readily found. Eating local food adds to the whole experience of being in another culture, not just on another beach.

    With that said, your post has made me hungry for a visit to Antigua!

  • Lori January 7, 2010 at 5:39 am

    C&C – There is something missing for me when I travel if I can’t eat local foods!

    Emily – Ha! I hear ya about the goat. I tried it, likely won’t have it again. I had breadfruit in Jamaica last year. It was fried with ackee and salt fish. Similar to a plantain for me.

    Joy – We try! 🙂

    lesley – I’d have to say when it comes to some of those restaurants around you like Local Burger, I feel the same way. 🙂

    OysterCulture – It was like that in Brazil too. Fruit was simply amazing. It makes it hard to eat the stuff we have around here. I had the same reaction as well. Ahh, okay, so THIS is a pineapple. Ha, ha!

    5 Star – It is a great island with a lot more to offer than I first thought. The food was great!

    kat – Yeah, sometimes they can be bad. That is one reason we keep going back to Sandals. They have lots of a la carte options (we don’t like buffets) and the food has been good to excellent. In Jamaica they try to do a lot of local stuff as well. They also get a lot of their ingredients locally on the island.

    Deb – I love foodie gifts too. I need to get busy using them!

    ImprotuDiva – It tasted as good as it looks! 🙂

    Angie – We love Jamaica and it was tough to visit others. It is still our favorite, but it was nice to compare. The Caribbean in general is so awesome! I’ve heard of Couples, but Sandals has us sucked in with trying to get our free week after so many stays. We are half way there. Ha, ha! We are hoping to head to Jamaica this Dec again as well.

    Daily Spud – It was like candy. Better than candy now that I think about it. 😉

    Toni – I loved the sea salt story. And I agree, a local often makes travel a better experience.

    MrsLavendula – Oh, it was so good! I’m missing it! 🙂

    Patricia – I feel the same way each time I look at them! 🙂

    Jennie – Thanks! Let me know if you make it there. I love to hear about others travel experiences.

    TN – I don’t get that either. Is it the vacationers that want that stuff or is it just the resort that thinks they do. I know people can be picky when it comes to Sandals from reading reviews. I say if you are traveling to another country no matter were it is you should be open to trying their foods. Just part of it for me. 🙂

  • Sook January 7, 2010 at 11:10 am

    Goat curry? I wonder what that tastes like. I’m always reluctant to try any meat other than the normal chicken, beef, and some pork… but it sure looks good though. Lots of pretty dishes there. Lucky! 🙂

  • Anna January 7, 2010 at 3:03 pm

    Wow everything looks so yummy, looks like you had tones of fun.

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